This tutorial for a Full Bust Adjustment is specifically meant for View B of the Onyx Shirt, the cropped top. It can also be used on other bodices with a waist dart but no bust dart. You can find the tutorial for View A, or bodices without any darts, here. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments. Before you start, please read the introduction to this post to decide whether you need and FBA to begin with.
When a new pattern appears, some people jump on it right away, and some wait to see other bloggers make it. For me it definitely helps to see a pattern on different bodies and in various fabrics. Sometimes I’m put off by the samples a designer has made, but then am completely convinced when it’s made up by a blogger I follow. So for the Onyx release I asked for reviewers, and the people below volunteered to write something in exchange for a free pattern. I have definitely gotten some ideas myself after seeing these! Click through to their blog to read what they think of the Onyx shirt and see more photos.
Sewing the Onyx cuffs is not the most difficult step technically, but the construction method might be new to you. The cuffs are designed as separate pattern pieces to get a better fit with the sleeves. You know those T-shirts with rolled up cuffs that stand at a different angle than the sleeves? Those ‘wings’ are a pet peeve of mine, and it’s what you get when you roll up a tapered sleeve. The Onyx cuffs have a zig zag edge and thus fit their sleeve perfectly. To better understand the sewing process, we’ve made this tutorial. We’ll follow Step 5 of the Onyx instructions.
In this tutorial I’ll show you how to finish a neckline with bias tape. We’ll be walking through Step 2 of the Onyx Shirt instructions, but you can follow these steps for any curved seam finished with bias tape. Before I used the techniques shown here, it took me quite a few tries to get this right. I always felt like tutorials made it seem so easy. And yet I could not get the neckline to lay flat, there were wrinkles, just not something I could really be proud of. But I’ve developed/discovered a few tricks that now give me the results I want, and I hope that after this tutorial you can be proud of your bias tape necklines too!
The instructions of the Onyx Shirt already give some information about the recommended fabrics to use, but let’s elaborate bit on that. The Onyx is designed for woven fabrics with no stretch. It works best made up in medium to lightweight fabrics, such as cotton voile, batiste, lawn, rayon/viscose, (double) gauze, silk blends, linen, quilting cottons, wax fabrics or poly blends. Basically anything woven without stretch that’s not too heavy! Even a chiffon would work, and could give it a very chique look.