Besides making my own clothes, I do occasionally make something for Stef. I haven’t blogged all of his sweaters because it was the same pattern and that would get a bit boring. This one is new and also relatively new in the sewing community, so I thought I’d throw it out there. The pattern is the Paxson from Seamwork Magazine, aka Colette Patterns. The sweaters I’d been making so far were made with the Föhr by Farbenmix. I thought it would be nice to try a raglan this time and it’s supposed to be a 1 hour project, not as much work as that plaid shirt that is also on his list.
According to his chest – waist measurements (hip is not given), he is an M in the chest and an S in the waist, so I cut a straight M. I did a rounded shoulder adjustment to the back piece of 1,5 cm. It is quite convenient to do on a raglan, because I could just shave off the extra width it creates in the neck from the armholes. I’m glad I didn’t skip this, the shirt drapes nicely over his back to hang straight down. At Stefs request I also omitted the cuffs and hem band and lengthened the bodice and sleeves accordingly. Other than that, I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern.
When he tried it on however, it was really tight across the shoulders. Shoulder measurements aren’t taken into account in the measurements, but I think he could really use an L there. It was so tight it wasn’t comfortable, even if I sewed with a 1/4″ seam allowance. I’m surprised I haven’t noticed this before, it might just be it shows more in a raglan because of the way the sleeves are shaped. Fortunately I was able to cut two new sleeves so I could widen the armscye. By the way, I was able to cut size M plus two extra sleeves out of 1,5 m of fabric! Far less than the recommended 2 1/4 yards. Just play around with the layout (you don’t even have to cut single layer).
With the new sleeves it still was a bit tight, so I cheated a bit and made a V neck to take away some tension across the upper chest. V necks suit him better than crew necks anyway, so a win-win. I didn’t have enough fabric to make the sleeves long enough though, so in the end they do have narrow cuffs after all. He rolls them up anyway so it doesn’t really matter. The V neck turned out rather nicely, although I think I’ll make the neckband a bit broader next time. I misplaced the pattern piece somehow so I just cut one without it. In the end, not exactly a 1 hour project but still relatively short, and the actual sewing takes no time at all. I serged the whole thing, but did a simple turn and stitch with a zig zag for the hem. Stef has been wearing it a lot, so we can call the Paxson a succes!
Here’s the two Paxsons Rachael sewed up for her man. Do you sew for yours? Would you consider the Paxson?