Pattern Hack: Colour Blocked Onyx

Pattern hack: colour blocked Onyx shirt

Today I’ll show you how to adapt your Onyx pattern so you can make a colour blocked shirt. It’s a very simple adjustment since the cropped View B already provides us with a guideline for where to slash the pattern. I’ve made illustrations instead of photos because I still need to set up a space with good light. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments.

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Full Bust Adjustment: Onyx Cropped Top

FBA on the Onyx Cropped Top

This tutorial for a Full Bust Adjustment is specifically meant for View B of the Onyx Shirt, the cropped top. It can also be used on other bodices with a waist dart but no bust dart. You can find the tutorial for View A, or bodices without any darts, here. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments. Before you start, please read the introduction to this post to decide whether you need and FBA to begin with.

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How to do a Full Bust Adjustment on a Dartless Shirt

FBA on a no dart bodice

Another kind of Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to add to the collection: one for a dartless bodice. This one is useful when you’re sewing the Onyx Shirt, but can be used on any sort of bodice without darts. I’ve drafted the images in Illustrator this time instead of making photo’s since I’m not completely satisfied with my photography setup at the moment. The drawings should be just as clear if not a little more abstract. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments. Before you start, please read the introduction to this post to decide whether you need and FBA to begin with.

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How to Sew the Onyx Cuffs

Onyx Shirt by Paprika Patterns

Sewing the Onyx cuffs is not the most difficult step technically, but the construction method might be new to you. The cuffs are designed as separate pattern pieces to get a better fit with the sleeves. You know those T-shirts with rolled up cuffs that stand at a different angle than the sleeves? Those ‘wings’ are a pet peeve of mine, and it’s what you get when you roll up a tapered sleeve. The Onyx cuffs have a zig zag edge and thus fit their sleeve perfectly. To better understand the sewing process, we’ve made this tutorial. We’ll follow Step 5 of the Onyx instructions.

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How To Sew a Bias Tape Neckline

How to finish a neckline with bias tape

In this tutorial I’ll show you how to finish a neckline with bias tape. We’ll be walking through Step 2 of the Onyx Shirt instructions, but you can follow these steps for any curved seam finished with bias tape. Before I used the techniques shown here, it took me quite a few tries to get this right. I always felt like tutorials made it seem so easy. And yet I could not get the neckline to lay flat, there were wrinkles, just not something I could really be proud of. But I’ve developed/discovered a few tricks that now give me the results I want, and I hope that after this tutorial you can be proud of your bias tape necklines too!

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