The Jade Skirt has a few steps in the construction that are not exactly difficult, but that could do with the help of some visual explanation. The skirt-sandwich that you make in order to get perfectly enclosed seam allowances is one of them. In the video below I’ll show you how to sew the front to the back of the Jade Skirt. This is Step 5 in the instructions.
A full bust adjustment must be one of the most common adjustments for people with breasts to make. Some pattern companies include multiple bodice pattern pieces with their patterns, but in most cases the front piece will be drafted for a certain cup size. In that case, you will need to adjust the front pattern piece to fit a larger bust. A look at how your RTW clothing fits you might already give you a clue. Are your button downs gaping? Your wrap tops falling open? Tight across the bust? Gaping armholes? Good in the bust but too large in the shoulders? Then you probably need one. Especially in woven garments, doing a full bust adjustment makes a huge improvement on the fit. And a better fitting garment will make you love that garment more.
If you want some more tightness at the waist of the Jade Skirt you could add elastic in the waistband. This could be especially useful if you have traced the pattern with the waist size bigger than the hip size (hopefully making it easy for yourself by using this method), or when you’re using a jersey fabric. Inserting elastic is not hard to do, and in this tutorial I’ll show you how it’s done.
Let’s talk about the size of our fabric stash today! I know – being honest about the amount of fabric and patterns you have might induce a certain amount of embarrassment and guilt. I seem to have an alter ego that takes over when looking at fabric. This other version of me has all the time in the world, the wildest ideas and never loses her mojo. Unfortunately this alter ego is not much connected with reality. I buy that fabric or pattern and then find that I have no time at all. Thus my stash accumulates and with it my guilt about purchases.
In the last post we’ve discussed how to check if you need a full bust adjustment and how much to add to the pattern. We’ve also demonstrated how a minimal FBA works in case you need to add 1″ or less. If you need more than that, you need to do a proper FBA and in this post we’ll guide you through that process. It seems like a lot of work when you look at the end result, but if you go step by step, it really isn’t that hard!
The Jade comes in two versions, mini and midi. I like the mini a lot, but it’s a bit on the short side because I’m 5’10”, and the pattern is drafted for a height of 5’7″. When I make the mini, I like to add a half inch to an inch (1-2,5 cm). Due to the way the front pattern piece is folded, lengthening or shortening this pattern piece is not as straightforward as just shifting slashing and spreading along the middle, or even at the bottom. So in this post I’ll show you how to adjust the length of the Jade front piece.
I remember my first attempt at an invisible zip: I didn’t know you needed a special foot, and as a result it turned out quite visible. If you’ve never sewn one either, I hope this tutorial will make your first try more successful! We’ll walk through the process step by step, and I’ve included a method to attach a lining as well. I’ll demonstrate it with the Amber Trousers, and we’ll follow those instructions. You can use it for any pattern that requires an invisible zip though. It is not a very complicated process but this tutorial is a bit long nonetheless, since I wanted to include a lot of photos. If you have any questions, leave a comment!