Fitting trousers is different from other garments mainly because of the crotch area – there’s just a lot going on there: four seams intersecting, one cilinder becoming two, a back that needs more room than a front. All kinds of fit issues are possible: different butt shapes, different thigh circumferences, a long or short rise, even different pubis bone shapes. Fortunately, with the Amber Trousers the only two areas you need to pay attention to are the fit of the yokes and the crotch. The legs are not close fitting so it’s not likely you’ll have to do much fitting there. In this post I’ll give you some tips on how to go about fitting the Amber Trousers and I’ll list some good resources too.
I remember my first attempt at an invisible zip: I didn’t know you needed a special foot, and as a result it turned out quite visible. If you’ve never sewn one either, I hope this tutorial will make your first try more successful! We’ll walk through the process step by step, and I’ve included a method to attach a lining as well. I’ll demonstrate it with the Amber Trousers, and we’ll follow those instructions. You can use it for any pattern that requires an invisible zip though. It is not a very complicated process but this tutorial is a bit long nonetheless, since I wanted to include a lot of photos. If you have any questions, leave a comment!
I am so thrilled to have this post for you today! A while back a gorgeous Jasper hack popped up in my feed. Lindsey from Stannel had used another tutorial on the Jasper to make a collar with a crossover front. She mentioned wanting to do a tutorial in Dutch, so I asked if I could post it here too, and she said yes. This one will be in English, you can read the Dutch version on Lindsy’s blog. Take it away Lindsy!
Today I’m going to show you my favorite way to attach a neckband to a garment. This is meant for stretch fabrics like jersey and french terry. The most common method is to divide the neckband in four, divide the neckline in four, match them up and then stretch the neckband while you sew. I also used this method in my Zircon instructions because it’s the one people are most familiar with. For this method the pattern designer provides a pattern piece for the neckband that is the right length, with a 10% or 15% stretch calculated in the pattern.
The Zircon yokes are the most time consuming step of the construction process, mostly because you need to be precise and you can’t hurry through the steps. The angular seams are an eye-catcher, and if you sew in haste the mistakes will show easily. That said, it is not actually very difficult, it just requires some patience. This tutorial will walk you through the steps. I am using the wrong side of the pink quilted jersey as the contrast fabric, I hope this isn’t too confusing.
It’s been a few months since I wrote part 1 and part 2 of these mini series, and I thought I’d report back on how my system has worked so far. The first post was about how my large stash was inhibiting my creativity, not fuelling it. Because I didn’t know what fabrics and what patterns I had, and there was no way to quickly browse through them, thinking about a new project made me indecisive rather than inspired. Instead of using great fabric I already had, I just purchased new fabric. I’ve found that organising my stash, patterns and fabric both made it easier to see what I have and to come up with new projects that didn’t require spending money. Today I’ll talk about whether this system has held up and some new insights I gained.
On this last day of Sewing Indie Month, I’m excited to welcome Dixie from Dixie DIY Patterns to our blog! Dixie was among the first blogs I started following. She was also one of the first to publish her own PDF patterns, and her series on how to start an Indie Pattern Company were a huge help when I started out. She’s prepared a fun Onyx hack for today. Enjoy!
Hi Paprika and SIM readers! I’m Dixie from Dixie DIY Patterns and I’m quite excited to share this nifty little Onyx Shirt hack with you. I used the Onyx Shirt as a base and did something a little different – I added a lining with lace attached to the hem. I like this look better than just sewing lace to the hem of a shirt because it looks like you’re wearing two separate tops and the layers move independent of one another.