On this last day of Sewing Indie Month, I’m excited to welcome Dixie from Dixie DIY Patterns to our blog! Dixie was among the first blogs I started following. She was also one of the first to publish her own PDF patterns, and her series on how to start an Indie Pattern Company were a huge help when I started out. She’s prepared a fun Onyx hack for today. Enjoy!
Hi Paprika and SIM readers! I’m Dixie from Dixie DIY Patterns and I’m quite excited to share this nifty little Onyx Shirt hack with you. I used the Onyx Shirt as a base and did something a little different – I added a lining with lace attached to the hem. I like this look better than just sewing lace to the hem of a shirt because it looks like you’re wearing two separate tops and the layers move independent of one another.
What You Need
- Onyx Shirt pattern
- tracing paper
- French curve (optional)
- outer fabric (I used a rayon challis),
- lining fabric (I had some leftover white rayon challis in my stash)
- lace/fabric trim for the ruffles. The ruffle material should be about 1.5 times your hip measurement and 2 to 4″ (5 – 10 cm) wide (I used a 2.75″ (7 cm) wide crochet lace).You won’t need bias tape to finish the neckline.
Adjust the Pattern Pieces
First, we need to add more ease to the hem of the outer fabric so the under layer of ruffles will have some room to “breathe.”
- Take the Front Piece and layer it over some tracing paper. Pivot the piece outward from the center front neckline point 1/2 – 1″ (1.25 – 2.5 cm). Using a french curve or drawing by hand, extend the side seams out 1/2 – 1″ (1.25 – 2.5 cm) at the hem grading to nothing at the underarm point.Re-draw the new extended hem following the original curve of the hem. Re-draw the grainline. Repeat with the Back Piece and true up the side seams.I know what you’re thinking – isn’t pivoting like that going to mess with the grainline? Yes – but doing it this way will more evenly spread the added ease around the body. If you just extended the hem out at the sides all that extra fabric would stick out on your sides like a triangle. And if you don’t flare out the hem the outer layer may end up “riding up” over lining and the lace.
- From here, slice off 1/2″ – 2″ (1.25 – 5 cm) from the hem of your new adapted Front and Back Pieces (this depends on the width of your ruffle trim, I shortened mine about 3/4″ (2 cm)).
- Next, make another tracing of your original front and back pieces. These will be the lining pieces.Cut of 2 – 3″ (5 – 7.5 cm) off the hem. The lining pieces have to be shorter than the hemmed outer pieces so the seam connecting the ruffle to the lining isn’t visible (I cut off about 2″ (5 cm)).
Attach the Ruffle
- Sew the lining pieces together at the shoulder and side seams. Finish your seam allowances. Repeat with the outer fabric.Sew the short ends of the ruffle together. If you need to, hem the ruffle and finish the seam allowance.
- Sew two lines of gathering stitches at the top of the ruffle (my lace is only lightly ruffled because the crochet is thick).With the wrong side of the lining facing out and the right side of the ruffle facing down, match the top edge of the ruffle to the hem of the lining. Evenly gather the ruffle to fit the hem of the lining. Pin and stitch.Press the seam allowance toward the lining. You can top stitch the seam allowance down if you want.
Sew the Neckline
- Right sides together, pin the outer fabric to the lining at the neckline. Stitch all the way around. From here, understitch the seam allowance to the lining. Clip the curves of the seam allowance so the neckline can lay flat. Finish the seam allowance.
Attach the Sleeves and Finish
- The pattern instructions originally call for attaching the sleeve to the armhole first, and then stitching up the side seams, but because we’re using a lining we have to set in the sleeves the old fashioned way – sorry.Baste the outer fabric to the lining at the armholes and treat both fabrics as one layer as you attach the sleeve. Finish seam allowances when you’re done.I decided the ruffle at the hem was enough visual interest so I left off the cuffs and epaulets from my sleeves but of course, you can still include them.
- Hem the outer fabric layer. The depth of the hem will depend on how much of the ruffle you want to expose.
And you’re done!
Thanks Dixie! It’s a really fun hack. And an Onyx with a lining would also make it more suitable for fall, especially when combined with a longer sleeve from the Sleeve Pack. Hmm maybe I do need some more Onyx shirts after all…