Sewing the Onyx cuffs is not the most difficult step technically, but the construction method might be new to you. The cuffs are designed as separate pattern pieces to get a better fit with the sleeves. You know those T-shirts with rolled up cuffs that stand at a different angle than the sleeves? Those ‘wings’ are a pet peeve of mine, and it’s what you get when you roll up a tapered sleeve. The Onyx cuffs have a zig zag edge and thus fit their sleeve perfectly. To better understand the sewing process, we’ve made this tutorial. We’ll follow Step 5 of the Onyx instructions.
What you need
- Your Onyx shirt sewn up to Step 5
- Cuff pattern pieces
Step 1: Sew the cuffs
Sew the short ends of both cuffs, right sides together. Sew a straight line at 5/8″ (1.5 cm), pivoting at the two corners. Press open. Finish the raw edge without the notch (the one that will be folded up) as desired. In this case I’ve just turned the edge under once. Whatever method you choose, don’t take away too much fabric, this will make the cuff less stable.
Step 2: Attach the cuffs
Turn the shirt inside out. Sew the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the shirt, matching the notches. This may seem counterintuitive but it’ll work out fine! Finish the seam. I used the faux-overlock stitch on my regular sewing machine, but a zig zag will do the trick as well.
Step 3: Secure the cuff
Turn the shirt right sides out and pull out the cuffs. Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve and topstitch. This prevents the cuff from unfolding. I find it easiest to fold the cuff up once and sew it like shown in the photo above. You don’t see the seam allowance when you sew, but if you stitch at 3/8″ from the sleeve seam you’ll catch it.
Fold the cuff up twice. First in half, so the edge meets the sleeve seam. Or a little away from it if you have folded up that raw edge like I did. Press the fold. Then fold up again along the sleeve seam. Press the fold again.
The last step is to secure the cuff on the underside with a few stitches. Match up the seams of the cuff and the sleeve and stitch back and forth a few times close to the armhole. This prevents the cuff from unfolding.
Now you can sew and attach your epaulets and you have some beautiful cuffs! If you have any questions let us know in the comments.